Quick Find
Energy Experts
- All users
- Laurence Jones
- Adrian Wright
- Linn Rafferty
- Ross Lammas
- Simon Forsyth
- Tim Pullen
- Howard Johns
- Hugo House
- John Martin
- Matthew Rhodes
- Pete Roberts
- Chris Davis
- John Barker-Brown
- John Lightfoot
- Barry Nutley
- Chris Rudge
- Gabriel Wondrausch
- Paul Hutchens
- David Hunt
- Graham Eastwick
Other Contributors
Cathy Debenham Gilly JonesGuest Bloggers
Aldous EverardAlister ScottChris RowlandDavid FieldsDuncan McIntoshGordon TraillHarvey JonesJames PageJon EdgeLisa HallMatt CodyMax SillarsMerlin HymanMike MackmurdieNick RoachRob PalgraveRoger CroftSimon FixterStewart BoyleArchive
Posting rulesRecent Comments
- Informative commercial website here concerning low energy LED downlighters.…
comment by andytee
- A very interesting post. It is up to everyone in the industry to put out a …
comment by ekland-ltd-ex4-7bd
- A properly designed condensing tumble drier should use the heat from the he…
comment by nigeldodd
Tag Cloud
YouGen Blog
Is my solar thermal system safe while I'm away on holiday?
Posted by Gabriel Wondrausch on 10 October 2011 at 9:37 am
Q: I’m going away for two months. Is there anything I should do to my solar thermal system while the house is empty?
A: It’s always important to look at the relevant part in your solar thermal user manual, but the most important advice is to leave your system turned on. It has been designed to endure long periods of low to zero hot water ‘draw off’.
Ideally you don’t want the collector temperature to go above 120-140 degrees as the fluid within will vaporise and ‘stagnate’, which puts the system under additional stresses and strains and reduces the effective life of the solar fluid.
When an installer designs a solar thermal system for a property it is imperative that they take measures to keep ‘stagnation’ to an absolute minimum. Stagnation occurs when excessive temperature in the collector causes the fluid to evaporate, as the system is under pressure (this usually takes place at 120 degrees C). We know that this is going to occur occasionally during the summer months and holiday periods. Each time stagnation occurs it reduces the effective lifespan of the solar fluid and causes additional stresses and strains on the system components.
Most solar thermal systems are set to achieve a maximum cylinder temperature of 60 degrees C, so if they generate more heat than this (usually on a very hot summer day or when there is little or no hot water usage), something known as a ‘heat dump bypass’ could be put in place to ‘dump’ the system’s excess heat into a radiator and prevent stagnation ever occurring.
About the author: Gabriel Wondrausch is founder and director of SunGift Solar, which installs solar thermal and other renewable energy systems in the South West of England.
If you have a question about anything in the above blog, please ask it in the comments section below.
Comments
3 comments - read them below or add one
Perhaps slightly ungreen from a water point of view but I have cosidered putting an extra thermostat fairly low down on my DHW cylinder which is set at a temperature just below the max temperature at which my solar controller is set. When I am away on holiday I would live up this thermostat with a switch and it would contol a washing machine type valve attached to my now redundat washing machine hot fill valve and would dump a small amount of hot water straight into the washing machine outflow pipe. That should prevent stagnation. Thoughts?
deeppurpleComment left on: 25 October 2011 at 4:07 pm
It would be a lot cheaper, albeit a bit tiresome, to put a blind over the collectors, assuming that they are easy to reach. Does anyone make a suitable remotely operated blind system the same as is used in conservatories?
Hi Gabriel,
My Solar Thermal installer explained the matter of stagnation and its affects on the fluid. I decided to help prevent my system from going into stagnation by fitting a heat dissipation system to expel excess heat out of the cylinder when the variable thermostat registered a given temperature. When I go on holiday, I set a lower temperature setting -- say 30 degrees; this way as soon as this temperature reached, the heat dissipation system kicks-in and starts to expel as much heat as it can, even when nobody is using any hot water.
It has been a success as my system has not gone into stagnation
for the last two years! A good quality dissipation system will cost just over £1000 pounds (parts).
Regards
Prax
Leave a comment
You must log in to make a comment. If you haven't already registered, please sign up as a company or an individual, then come back and have your say.
Follow us on Twitter
Looking forward to today's workshop with @parityprojects 2 hours ago
Solar PV remains one of the best investments around say trade bodies http://t.co/dxKDhVXh yesterday
@Kristian_Marr I'm intrigued to know what's involved in being a DECC youth panellist yesterday




JohnShrewsComment left on: 14 February 2012 at 9:14 am